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Hot Wheels 100 Car Case Overviews
This Hot Wheels rolling case has a telescoping handle and wheels. The case stores up to 100 vehicles of 1/64 scale. The rolling wheels and telescoping handle are great for kids on the go! The case has a side snap closure. The photo on the front may vary from what is shown-- front photo typically displays the word Hot Wheels and one or more vehicles. The case is 10.75 inches long, 6 inches deep, and 12 inches tall excluding the two inch handle. Age 3+
Hot Wheels 100 Car Case Features
- Hot Wheels Storage Case that can be use at home or on the go
- Holds up to 100 Hot Wheel Cars
- Store your cars and take them everywhere
- Kids love to take their die cast cars with them
Used vs New
In general you can get a better deal on a slightly used car than you can on a new car. This is because as soon as you buy a new car, it is now considered "used" and the value drops. It may sound dumb, but the sad fact is that if you had to sell that car back to the dealer or to a private party then you would be lucky if you could sell it for the same price that you bought it at. So for example if you want to buy a 2010 model year car, it is better to wait until the 2011 models come out and see if any 2010 models with low mileage become available.
Hot Wheels 100 Car Case
Figure Out the Market Value of the Car you want to buy
How to Buy a Used Car From a Dealer - Tips For Negotiating With Car Salesmen
In negotiations most dealers will use Kelly Blue Book values. You can go to the Kelly Blue Book website and look up the value of the car you want to buy. Also look up the value of the same car model released two years ago. For example if you wanted to buy a specific automobile make and model then look up the value for the exact same make on model for both the 2009 and 2007 models. The difference between the 2007 and 2009 price is the depreciation. This gives you a good idea how much the car depreciates on average. Now if the current model year is 2011, then you can use your rough depreciation estimate to determine the fair value of the 2009 model. For example if the Kelly Blue Book values for 2009 and 2007 models are: ,000 and ,000 respectively, then the depreciation is ,500 per year. So if you go to the dealership and the 2010 model is priced at ,000 then you can argue that due to depreciation the 2009 model should sell for ,000-,500=,500.
Know Your Price
Now that you know the Kelly Blue Book value of the car that you want to buy, you need to ask yourself whether or not you can afford this price. If the price is ~10% too high then you have a good chance of negotiating the price down. But if you are seeking to negotiate a car more than 10% off then you'll have to be armed with some good evidence to get it down farther than that. At any rate you should head to the dealer with a maximum total out-the-door price in mind. The out-the-door price is the total price of the vehicle including taxes and fees. Always negotiate the out-the-door price with the dealer. Never negotiate the monthly payment. The dealer can always reduce the monthly payment by stretching out the length of the loan- but you end up paying more for the car in the long run.
Let the Salesperson Know that you want to Buy Today
Visit the dealership on a slow day like Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday. Let the salesperson know that you are a serious buyer and want to buy this car today. Salespeople don't want to waste their time with people browsing cars. They want to sell cars. So they will pay extra attention and go over the vehicle more carefully with you if you let them know about this in advance. Since they don't get as many buyers on slow days they'll be more flexible to close the deal with you.
Be Meticulous
Be meticulous when inspecting the car. Look for any scratches, dings, cracks in the mirrors, worn tires, missing reflectors, etc. Anything you can find is evidence that you can use against the dealer to negotiate the price down. Not only can you argue that these features are missing, but you can also argue that since these items are missing the previous owner of the car must not have taken care of the automobile. For example, think about why a car would be missing a reflector. How does a reflector fall off? When you think about it, it's pretty hard for something like that to happen unless the driver is driving in a very reckless manner.
Find Out About the Previous Owner
Request a carfax report (most good dealerships give these for free) and find out about the previous owners of the car. If the car has had more than one owner then you can use this as a bargaining chip. Was the previous owner leasing the car or was he the original owner who traded it back in or sold it back to the dealership? If the previous owner leased the car then the car is more likely to be in better condition than a car that was traded-in or sold back to the dealership. Leases have restrictions on how much you can drive the vehicle so people who lease cars are less likely to drive the snot of the car because they might have to pay additional penalties. Sometimes cars are used as "service vehicles." These vehicles are owned by the dealership and loaned out to people who drop their cars off for maintenance. Loaner service vehicles aren't loaned out with many contractual agreements so be aware that people can drive these cars as hard as they want. This information is another bargaining point you can use to build your case with the dealer to drop the price.
How to Negotiate
Keep your maximum out-the-door price in mind. Now that you have fully inspected the vehicle you intend to buy you should estimate in your mind the actual value. For example few used cars are in pristine condition. Put together a list of things and rough costs it would take to fix them and subtract them from your max out-the-door price. Then knock off another 10% and use the resulting price as your first bid. The salesperson will then go to the sales manager and check on the price.
After a few minutes the salesperson will return with a counter offer and usually some supporting documents to support their price. Now you can use the defects that you noticed, the previous owner history, and the mileage on the car as bargaining points. The salesperson will have some idea at this point about the lowest price that the manager will sell the car for. Try to get as much information from the salesperson as you can about what the manager will be willing to accept for the car. The sales person will also try to pry your maximum out-the-door price from you. Do not let him get that number from you.
In most negotiations if you put a really low ball offer on a car then the sales person will return and won't offer a counter offer. However if he does come back with a counter offer, then you know at that point that the average of your bidding price and his counter-offer is a price that you should be able to get the car at. For example, if you bid ,000 and the salesperson goes to the manager and counters with ,000 then that means that you should absolutely be able to buy the car for ,500. With this in mind your next bid should be around 3-5% higher. For the example with the ,000 first bid, a good second big would be between ,500 and ,000.
Throwing Other Accessories In
The salesperson might try to throw in accessories like floor mats. Floor mats aren't cheap but they aren't that expensive either and most accessories like floor mats and cup holders shouldn't be used as bargaining chips. A detailing job on your car may take a few hours at most. This translates into two man hours of work. At a $100/hour rate this is equivalent to 0. So a detailing job isn't really worth much either. If the salesperson can throw in extra tires, bigger wheels, or an extra warranty then those are options you should consider because they aren't cheap and they are things you will eventually have to pay for anyway. But stay away from floor mats, keychains, and other little accessories.
Walk Out
After your second bid the salesperson will come back with yet another counter offer. If your second bid was reasonable then the sales manager will usually come down on the asking price as well. Even if the salesperson comes back with a price that is under your max out-the-door price, now is the time for you to walk out. Argue that the second bid you made was your best offer and that you can't pay anymore. The salesperson will try to convince you otherwise, but don't be swayed. Instead, be polite, thank them for their time but mention the other vehicle options that you have to check out today. Then stand up and walk out.
This is the last thing any car salesman wants to see. No matter how much you love the car, you have to stay firm and walk out. In many cases the salesperson will ask you to wait while he consults his sales manager for a final offer. The sales manager may come out and pitch you a final offer. If he does not, then leave. By that point they will have your contact information and after you have left they will call you either the same day or the next day. However to get the absolute best price on a car, you have to walk out or at least threaten to walk out. If you aren't that far apart on the bid and ask price, just threatening to walk out will usually result in the dealership caving to your bidding price.
How to Buy a Used Car From a Dealer - Tips For Negotiating With Car Salesmen
Conclusion
Once you and the salesperson come to agreement on a price then you can pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Negotiating isn't easy! To make your negotiation easier, spend some time browsing car manufacturer website prior to coming in to a dealer to make sure you know all about the different trim levels available to you so that you can make the best decision on which car to buy. Also Remember that used cars don't come with any auto insurance so don't drive around with your new car until you are properly insured.
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